The Listan Negro for Envinate's 'Migan' is sourced from the village of La Perdoma; whose ancient name was Migan. This is a truly unique growing area that defines the wine's elegant style. In a small area, they work from four different vineyards at varying altitudes, all boasting red volcanic soils. The resulting wine is remarkable. A pure, ethereal red, with redcurrant, orange and spices on the nose, combined with soft raspberry and cherry notes. There is great structure here too, and certainly abundant potential to age well.
The 2020 Migan is a red from La Orotava and was produced with Listán Negro grapes from the village of La Perdoma, whose ancient name was Migan. It comes from four plots—Montijo (40% of the grapes), Tío Luis (30%), La Habanera (20%) and Las Suertes (10%)—on red volcanic soils and at different altitudes, between 350 and 600 meters above sea level, where altitude defines the character of the plot. In 2020, they didn't use the San Antonio vineyard that was used in previous vintages; it has been replaced by Montijo. 2020 was an early harvest, and the grapes fermented by plot, always with indigenous yeasts, and 70% of the wine matured in neutral 500- and 600-liter oak barrels, while the wine from Tío Luis matured in concrete.
The change in vineyards (they abandoned the one with more clay at lower altitude and increased in higher altitude and with less clay) has given the wine an extra kick. These wines reward time in bottle, and they need at least one year. Right now, this feels a little closed and tight, but it has great freshness and finer tannins and, in the long run, should make a better wine than the 2019.
In his fantastic book 'The New Vignerons', acclaimed wine writer Luis Gutiérrez of robertparker.com suggests that the future of Spanish wine lies in its past. The producer who leads the charge with this in mind, is undoubtedly Envinate; a collective of four winemaking friends currently enjoying near-mythical levels of success.
Envínate (aka wine-yourself) is the brainchild of Laura Ramos, Jose Martínez, Roberto Santana and Alfonso Torrente, four friends who met while studying oenology at the University of Miguel Hernández in Alicante. Their highly sought after wines hail from single vineyards in some of Spains most historic regions, helping to re-establish the reputations of places like Ribeira Sacra and the Canary Islands. Their winemaking is stripped right back to basics, pulling on simple (yet very effective) techniques of the past to craft explosive, exciting wines adored the world over today.
"From landscape to ways of working, everything seems to have been frozen for a hundred years." Luis Gutiérrez writes for robertparker.com in 2016.
Right now there are four different projects under the Envínate umbrella: Lousas by Alfonso Torrente in Ribeira Sacra, Táganan by Roberto Santana in Tenerife, T. Amarela in Extremadura and Albahra in Almansa both by Laura Ramos and José Martínez. These are some of The Sourcing Table's most unique and special wines, and some are only made in tiny quantities, so grab them while you can!