Meaning literally “The Grapes of Wrath”, this wine is made from old-vine Garnacha sourced from four different sites near the village of El Real de San Vicente in Sierra de Gredos - just south west of Madrid. This is miles away from the typical concentrated style many people associate with the grape. Rather, it is lifted and elegant, with savoury yet fresh red fruit, spice, and dry, chalky tannins. A real triumph of Spanish Garnacha that highlights its ability to create vibrant, fine wines.
The 2021 Las Uvas de la Ira, produced and sold before by Dani Landi, is now a wine from Vitícola Mentridana under the direction of Curro Bareño, who takes over in this cool vintage. It was produced in the same way, from six vineyards in the village El Real De San Vicente, fermented separately and, depending on the vineyards, with shorter or longer macerations (longer in the vineyard they called El Fin del Mundo). Vinification has been like this since 2017, with contained extraction from the earlier-ripening vineyards and getting more grip from the slow-ripening places that have the rock and give the grip. It has contained ripeness and very good balance and expression, with fruit and juicy, but it also has chalky grip.
The Sierra de Gredos is an area of rugged granite peaks, forests and hilltop towns southwest of Madrid. The combination of high altitude, free-draining granitic soils, and a long growing season gives it a unique micro-climate. Vines cling to scree-slopes like mountain goats, many of these sites were abandoned decades ago, but a new generation of growers is rediscovering them.
Dani Landi was one of the pioneers working with the old vines here, making elegant, mineral wines, that are redefining what was previously viewed as a workhorse variety into something that can rival the elegance and finesse of some of the world’s most sought-after reds.
Curro Barreño, one half of the brilliant Ribeira Sacra project Fedellos, also grew up in this area. He’s a childhood friend of Dani, sharing many bottles together and winemaking influences.
Since 2021 Curro has taken over responsibility for Dani’s vineyards in Méntrida, and is making wines under the Vitícola Mentridana label. Curro’s building on Dani’s meticulous foundations, interpreting the vineyards, and working with a light touch in the winery. Curro is happy to have come home to make wine in the area where he grew up, and to see the evolution of wines in the area which are becoming modern classics, graceful wines we love to drink.
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