Jonatan Garcia, from pioneering Tenerife bodega Suertes del Marqués, is part of the growing breed of passionate Spanish producers working on the island, capitalising on the heritage vines, and allowing the volcanic soils to speak through his eloquent, mineral-driven wines.
Vidonia, his top white from old-vine Listán Blanco, is often compared to good Burgundy. It's wonderfully complex, with a matchstick nose alongside citrus, peach and nuts. It has a rounded mouthfeel balanced by lively acidity, fine citrus fruit and a hint of wax - a truly singular wine.
"It has an electric palate with a stony texture, with very clean and focused flavors and great length. This could very well be the finest Vidonia to date." - Luis Gutiérrez
The Listán Blanco 2020 Vidonia comes from the vines in Las Suertes, La Florida and La Mocana on clay soils that deliver wines with great finesse. It's 12.5% alcohol and has a low pH of 3.1 and 6.7 grams of acidity, quite high for Listán Blanco (Palomino), a grape that usually has moderate acidity. It fermented with indigenous yeasts in used 500-liter oak barrels and matured in a fourth-use 2,500-liter oak foudre and used 500-liter oak barrels for 11 months. It reminded me of the vibrant quality of the 2018, a white with lots of finesse, precision and harmony. It has an electric palate with a stony texture, with very clean and focused flavors and great length. This could very well be the finest Vidonia to date.
Bone dry and with real dry depth on the end. It's that halfway-to-sherry structure again! Long and confident. Fresh fruit flavours. Island stuff unadorned and very long.
Tenerife has a long and fascinating winemaking history, indigenous varieties such as Listan Negro, Tintilla and Baboso Negro, can be found growing on 100-year-old vines. Many of these older vines are trained in unique braided cordons known locally as cordon trenzado.
Suertes source their grapes from the Orotova Valley, on the cooler north side of the island, which features volcanic clay soils and steep slopes of the Pico del Teide volcano. The estate has some incredibly old, low-yielding vines and produces wines that have freshness, balance, purity of fruit, minerality and an authentic terroir character.