Táganan is the old local name for this rugged vineyard area located on the northeastern side of Tenerife, where vines are planted on rocky, volcanic cliffs just above the Atlantic Ocean. This is an intriguing blend of native grape varieties, including Listan Negro, Negramoll, Mulata, Listan Gacho and Malvasia Rosada (to name just a few). Smoky and spicy notes on the nose with black pepper and fresh red fruit aromas. Certainly approachable in its youth, but it will reward patience. If you can stand to hang onto it for a few years, that's when this wine really comes to life!
The red 2020 Táganan Tinto comes from an even lower yielding vintage. It's a village red from different plots planted mostly with Listán Negro and Negramoll and also some Mulata, Listán Gacho (pink/rosé) and Malvasía Rosada. It fermented with 50% to 70% stems, depending on the plot, and matured in well-seasoned, neural 228-liter oak barrels for one year. They had lower yields and very concentrated grapes, but they managed to produce fresher wines with shorter macerations and higher fermentation temperatures. The palate is vibrant, long and fresh, with fine tannins and deeper and more layered. A real triumph. There's more finesse here and finer tannins.
In his fantastic book 'The New Vignerons', acclaimed wine writer Luis Gutiérrez of robertparker.com suggests that the future of Spanish wine lies in its past. The producer who leads the charge with this in mind, is undoubtedly Envinate; a collective of four winemaking friends currently enjoying near-mythical levels of success.
Envínate (aka wine-yourself) is the brainchild of Laura Ramos, Jose Martínez, Roberto Santana and Alfonso Torrente, four friends who met while studying oenology at the University of Miguel Hernández in Alicante. Their highly sought after wines hail from single vineyards in some of Spains most historic regions, helping to re-establish the reputations of places like Ribeira Sacra and the Canary Islands. Their winemaking is stripped right back to basics, pulling on simple (yet very effective) techniques of the past to craft explosive, exciting wines adored the world over today.
"From landscape to ways of working, everything seems to have been frozen for a hundred years." Luis Gutiérrez writes for robertparker.com in 2016.
Right now there are four different projects under the Envínate umbrella: Lousas by Alfonso Torrente in Ribeira Sacra, Táganan by Roberto Santana in Tenerife, T. Amarela in Extremadura and Albahra in Almansa both by Laura Ramos and José Martínez. These are some of The Sourcing Table's most unique and special wines, and some are only made in tiny quantities, so grab them while you can!
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