An exceptional, dry riesling from one of Mosel's great talents. Clemens Busch mastered the 2017 vintage with his dry wines and the 'Vom Grauen Schiefer' is a genuine joy to drink. Pure, lean and flinty with fantastic precision and compelling notes of zingy lemon zest, white peach, light florals plus a tickle of pepper on the finish. Energetic and incredibly moreish, we found it became even more generous the longer we swirled it in our glass. A masterclass in the Mosel.
The 2017 Riesling Vom Grauen Schiefer is pure and flinty on the crunchy, elegant and aromatic nose that represents the gray slate part of the classified Marienburg. Bottled in September 2017, the palate is pretty intense, lush and well-balanced and reveals an intensely mineral and well-structured finish. The 2017 is still quite reductive and will benefit from generous aeration.
Black pepper, lemon zest, lavender and dusty crushed stone make for a rather dramatic opening act in this wine’s performance. The palate and tinglingly animating finish retain the invigorating bite, sizzle and pungency that were anticipated on the nose, but with plenty of bright lemon and apple juiciness as well as a palpable, welcome buffering of lees.
Clemens Busch is a pioneer of organic and biodynamic winemaking in the Mosel region of Germany. From the 1970s, long before it was ‘cool’ to work in a natural way, Clemens and his wife Rita were already questioning the excessive use of herbicides and sulphur in local winemaking. They inherited their own vineyards in the mid-1980s and finally had a chance to put their ideas into practice. These vines let the results speak for themselves. Teetering on the edge of the hills overlooking the winding Mosel River, these vineyards are a paradise for diverse grape growing. Fermented using wild yeast, nothing is added to their wines at any stage – apart from a minuscule dose of sulphur at bottling. Charming and self-effacing, Clemens' winemaking is honest and refined, producing wines that are pure expressions of their terroir.